Back to Mike's Clock Clinic's Revere Web Page


    Please remember that each motor or rotor in the body of this Web
page have clickable links to their individual Web pages and pictures.

    Any rebuilt Telechron "B" rotor can have any shaft you'd need.  Once I
open up a "B" rotor I can install any configuration of shaft or pinion.


    Here is a Web page with some of the steps illustrated with pictures.  
Repair Illustration



    For a Web page listing of all Revere (Telechron) Clock Rotors by their M # please see:
http://www.revereclock.com/m-rotor.html



GE, Herschede, Revere, & Telechron Electric Clock Rotor &
Clock Motor Repair and Service Charges,  G.E., General Electric, Herschede, Revere, and Telechron Westminster.




Copyright © 1995-2024 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic

Mike Murray
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR  97830-0562
The P.O. Box is for the USPS only and should be removed for all other carriers.

Please do NOT call or E-mail unless you have read this entire Web page

E-mail address: Mike@revereclock.com (Preferred contact method)
MCC's main Web site is located at http://www.revereclock.com/

Most all Revere's, chiming Telechron's, chiming Herschede's
and chiming GE electric clocks take a 1-RPM "B" rotor. 



Index of Clock Motor and Clock Rotor & Resources by Category:





    Virtually every motor and rotor is no longer in production and because of the rarity
of these items, all prices are firm and there is no trade discount of any kind.

    I don't list or sell any 50 cycle rotors but they can be rebuilt.

    All rotors and coils carry a 2-year warranty.  If failure occurs during
the warranty period the item will be repaired or replaced for free but you
would be responsible for the shipping costs to Mike's Clock Clinic.

    Most rebuilt (overhauled) original "B" rotors are overhauled for $150.00
plus shipping of $20.00 US and $45.00 Canada using Priority Mail, if you send in the rotor.

	My turnaround is 6 to 8 weeks for motor/rotor service, 8 to 12 months if the clock
is sent with the motor/rotor, or if the movement is overhauled.  If the movement is to be
overhauled then add $700.00 extra.

    All rotor only service requires prepayment made out to Mike Murray,
unless you don't mind waiting a year.

    If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised
that shipping and labor will jump to $180.00 with everything else staying the
same.  The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my
labor charge of $150.00 for the replacement.  Labor adds $150.00 and return
shipping adds $50.00, ($350.00 total) and I can ship at that price for clocks up
to 22" long.

	There is usually a saw like 2 blade system in the clock to secure the chime rods
for shipping.  Please be sure that is engaged for safe shipping.  If they are gone or
not there then I use a piece of small bulb-ed bubble wrap and fold it over once and
then weave it in and out of the chime rods.  A one inch wide  strip is all that is needed.
This is easy to remove and prevents the chime rods of rattling during shipping and
breaking.  If one or more breaks then that adds $150.00 to install a set of tuned rods
which has to be done because replacing only one or two rods throws the whole
tune out of pitch.

    I cannot guarantee that the motor/rotor replacement will fix you clock's problem
100% of the time, simply because the clock movement (mechanism) may need work as well.

    All rebuilt's from whatever source, will have some noise.  Rebuilts will be
significantly quieter but the aluminum rotor will carry some noise.

    Drilling holes was often done by the amateur in order to extend the life of
the rotor.  These holes were used in order to add oil to the rotor and at
one time oil may have helped but that does nothing for accumulated dirt and old
coagulated oil and nothing for plate and wheel wear.

    I use synthetic grease and synthetic oil so, in theory, there should never be
a need for more oil.

    Original coils run $170.00 and this includes shipping.  I no longer have
a source for newly manufactured coils, so when my stock is gone it is gone.

    Many past repair people just grabbed any coil that they could get there hands
on and for longer life of the clock and rotor, you should seriously consider
replacing the coil if yours is not the proper wattage.

    All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.

    Please see this link for coil information.   Coil Information

    You MUST add $20.00 to each order (Canada is $45.00) to include return shipping by U.S. Priority Mail.



Listing of all Telechron's by their M # on the Rotor


    Please view this Web page for a M # listing on all Telechron rotors:

http://www.revereclock.com/m-rotor.html.


    With the M #, I'll be able to identify the exact rotor and give you a more
precise turn around time but I'm about 6 to 8 weeks.
Return to Index


Telechron Rotors


    All my Telechron rotors are either copper or nickel and NOT aluminum.
The aluminum rotors were cheapened versions of the copper or nickel rotors.
GE, who always had a stake in Telechron, finally purchased it outright in the
70's and that's when the aluminum rotors appeared.
Return to Index


Rebuilt Telechron Aluminum Rotors


    The aluminum "B-13" rotor can be rebuilt.   The process takes about 6 to 8 weeks and the cost
on the "B-13" is $150.00 plus $20.00 priority mail (Canada is $45.00), which brings your total
cost to $170.00.  Typically aluminum rotors have a M # of 3300 or higher.   The "B-13" aluminum rotor
can be ordered without having to send in your old one but it would be nice if you have the time.
My having some in stock is why the turn around is a few days assuming you send the $170.00.

    The one disadvantage of an aluminum cased rotor is that Telechron used fiber
board plates and then coated them (dipped) in phenolic resin whereas the pre-aluminum
rotors used copper plates.  Three of the seven wheels, in the "B-13" rotor,
are also phenolic resin and that material was used to reduce noise of the wheels meshing
but actually the plates used increased the overall noise of the rotor.  Phenolic
dipped plates will never last as long as copper and the material was used to reduce overall
production costs but should last for years.  It is because of these plates that
the noise level of any rebuilt aluminum rotor will be greater than the copper plates
of original rotors.  So I strongly suggest you do NOT use an aluminum rotor for
clocks located in your sleeping area.

    All aluminum "B" rotors are replacement rotors.  Meaning that they were
manufactured after your clock was made in order to save production costs on replacements.

    I'll not ship any rotor until I am paid.  Once the old rotor is received,
I then rebuild the rotor and test and it generally takes about 6 to 8 weeks, then
it is shipped and will carry a 2-year warranty.

    All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.

    If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised
that shipping and labor will jump to $180.00 with everything else staying the
same.  The increase covers return shipping and insurance and includes my
labor charge of $100.00 for the replacement.  Labor adds $150.00 and return
shipping adds $50.00, ($350.00 total) and I can ship at that price for clocks up
to 22" long.



        For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping.  If you want
to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping,
meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.




A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron B Rotors


    Installing the Telechron "B" rotor is a fairly straight forward job.  There are
two large, usually brass, screws which hold the entire "motor".  The motor consists
of the rotor, field, and coil.  The only "catch" is that there is a pinion gear
screwed onto the flat portion on the shaft of the rotor.  This must be removed
before you can remove the "motor".  Most times the entire movement must be
completely removed from the case in order to access this pinion.  Sometimes
it is a little tough in locating and loosing this screw because the clock may have
stopped with the flat portion of the rotor's shaft facing away from your access point.
You need to loosen this screw and then the pinion will slide off and this can happen
when you remove the "motor".

    A VERY important note is that the pinion MUST be placed back in the same position and
the same orientation on the rebuilt rotor as it was on the dead rotor.   This
installation can usually only be done once the rebuilt rotor and the rest of the
"motor" is installed in the clock's movement.

    There is a brass collar at the point where the shaft protrudes from the rotor.
This collar must be seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor shaft
enters the clock movement.  This collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

    The word "TOP" is located on the rotor and that word should be facing straight up so
that the rotor can self lubricate.  In other words, the word "TOP" should be
facing your ceiling.  If you do not install the rotor correctly, it will shorten
its life significantly.

    Another area of caution is the coil.  The coil has two very fine wires connecting
to the larger wires, which eventually connect to the power source.  These break
very easily and please DON'T try to pull the motor away from the movement because this
may break the wires on the coil.  And any extra or rough handling of the coil can
and will result in wire breakage.  So please handle the "motor" with great care.

    To determine whether or not you need a coil, you can take a Multimeter or
Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $10.00 at any hardware store, and with no
current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end
of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading.
Just about any reading is a good one and if you can see the coil #, that represents
the Ohm reading so if your coil is a # 60 coil then you should get about 60 or 600 ohms
depending on the setting of the meter.

    Some have indicated to me a fear of the clock shorting out or becoming a fire hazard.
If that's the case then purchase a power strip and only plug the clock into it.
This way you have a fuse to stop an overload before it feeds back into your household
or office wiring.  Honestly, I have never heard of an electric clock causing a fire
but putting in a power strip may ease some fears.
Return to Index

    More information about the specific rotor using the "M-#", please see:

http://www.revereclock.com/m-rotor.html.

Return to Index


Who Does the Work?


It should be known that ALL work is done in house and by me personally.
The exception is fabricating a new replacement part, which is very, very rare.


        For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping.  If you want
to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping,
meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.


Return to Index


Payments.


    Please do not send any money or check with the clock.  However, if you are
sending a Telechron rotor only, prepayment is always welcomed because of the
relatively short turn around time.

    All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.

    I would like payment by money order, certified check, personal check,
business check, or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take
credit cards.  I do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and
Square take 4%.  I only take credit cards if you are in the USA or Canada.

    The 4% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card.

    With Pay Pal you can pay me directly using "friends and family" where
you absorb all fees and I'm paid the full amount.  There would be nothing
added amount to the final fill if you absorb all fees.  Here you log on
to Pay Pal and send me the full amount of my bill, so there is no E-voice
coming from me with this method and you will be charged all Pay Pal fees
on top of my final bill.

    With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail
address.  Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me.

    You do not have to be a member of Pay Pal or Square in order to issue a payment but
the 4% will be added to your total bill.

	All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your
credit card.

    If you already have a Pay Pal account and want to see my verification at Pay Pal, then see:



What if the clock needs more service?


    Sometimes the electric clock needs to be overhauled even thought all the electrical
parts are replaced.

    Electric clocks and especially chiming electrics, will wear out and rebuilt rotor or
not they will not run or run accurately.  One quick check it to grab the center
of the minute hand with your fingers and see if it wobbles.  Meaning that there
should be a very slight amount of "up, down, or side to side" play.  If the "play"
is greater than a mm or so then there is a good chance the movement will have to be
rebuilt in order for the clock to run properly.

    If that's the case then please see: Electric Overhaul Fees page

Return to Index




A service from, Mike Murray
E-mail address: Mike@revereclock.com
Founder of Clocksmiths
A specialist in Atmos and 400-day clock repair.

Also, I overhaul most plug in electric clocks. In continuous service since 04/01/1982.

Mike Murray   Memberships: Clocksmiths & NAWCC
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR  97830-0562

Phone: 541-370-2440 (Please E-mail rather than call).

My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/
Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html

My Go Fund Me Page

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Copyright © 1995-2024 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic
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Created in December of 1995 and last updated January 02, 2024.